Experience the cultural significance of Calabria's Varia di Palmi, a colossal religious procession celebrating faith and tradition.
If you’re in Italy and want to be swept up by the sheer energy of a festival so grand for a small southern town, Calabria’s Varia di Palmi is an incredible event to see. Every August, the quaint town of Palmi (just a 40-minute drive outside of Reggio Calabria) transforms into a bustling carnival of history and faith, complete with an enormous holy wagon that has to be seen to be believed. If you thought Calabria was just about stunning coastlines and delicious food, think again—this festival is about to blow your mind.
This year’s Varia di Palmi will be happening in just two days! If you’re already in town for the Festa di San Francesco in Vazzano, it’s an easy place to drive between the festivities!
A Brief History of the Varia di Palmi
The Varia di Palmi is not just a festival; it's a deep-rooted tradition that has captivated locals and visitors for centuries. The origins of this grand procession date back to the 16th century, a testament to the enduring spirit and faith of the people of Palmi. The Varia celebrates the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, a deeply revered event in Catholicism. The festival's main event—the procession of the Varia—symbolizes Mary's ascent to heaven.
It’s believed that this celebration’s roots originated in 1582, a link between the town's devotion to the Virgin Mary and the people’s prayers to her for protection from natural disasters (the south is known for its earthquakes, among other natural phenomena that could impact people’s day-to-day lives). While it certainly has its religious importance and ties to Catholicism, it’s an incredible event to attend for the sheer cultural significance of it. I don’t know about you, but I love being steeped in a place's local culture; if I can see a festival going on for hundreds of years, it’s all the better.
As recently as 2013, the Varia di Palmi was inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, cementing its status as a cultural treasure. Watch the video below to see just how grand it is!
The Awe-Inspiring Varia (the Holy Wagon)
I had seen a (much smaller) Varia structure while visiting Messina, Sicily, earlier in August of last year, the mountain-like contraption sitting in a church square. My cousin had explained to me what it was, and it seemed unbelievable to me that a bunch of people pulled the Varia along the procession instead of hooking it up to a vehicle to do the brunt of the work. Of course, I wanted to see this all in action, but as there was no procession during my afternoon in Messina, this opportunity was not in the cards.
However, later in the month, the Varia di Palmi was happening right in Calabria (and not too far of a drive from us), so it was the perfect chance for me to see it all in action.
The Varia is at the heart of the festival, more exciting than the live music, the colourful decorations, or the streets bustling with life. This is an enormous 16-metre-tall (52.5 feet) tall, over 18,000-kilogram (20-ton) holy wagon that is as impressive as it is intricate, having been built in 1900 by Palmi’s inventor Giuseppe Militano. This colossal structure is a marvel of engineering and artistry, and its grand procession is the highlight of the festival. This towering conical structure is made of wood and metal and is covered in white and silver papier-mâché to represent clouds and the sky.
The Varia is carried by hundreds of ’mbuttaturi, or carriers, who move in unison to transport this massive structure through the streets of Palmi. The sheer effort and coordination are a sight to behold, showcasing the community's unity and devotion to this grand event.
The Role of the ’Mbuttaturi in the Community
The Varia di Palmi is more than just a festival, though; it's a testament to the strength and unity of the Palmi community. The role of the ’mbuttaturi is central to the festival, symbolizing the collective effort and spirit of the town. It takes over 200 people to carry the Varia through the streets, each playing a crucial part in this Herculean task. These young men are typically divided into five guilds: Artigiani (Artisans), Bovari (Cattle Drivers), Carrettieri (Cart Drivers), Contadini (Farmers), and Marinai (Sailors).
The role of the ’mbuttaturi is often passed down through generations, with families taking pride in their contribution to this historic event and being able to help this entire event come to be. The procession is not just a physical challenge, but a spiritual journey for the ’mbuttaturi, who see their participation as a form of devotion and a way to honour their ancestors.
A Symbol of Identity and Cultural Significance
The Varia di Palmi is a true symbol of the town's identity and heritage. It reflects the deep-rooted traditions and values passed down through generations, playing a crucial role in preserving and promoting Palmi's cultural traditions. This ensures that future generations continue to honour and celebrate their heritage. The Varia di Palmi fosters a strong sense of community, bringing together people of all ages and backgrounds to celebrate their faith and culture.
Adorned with statues and symbols that represent the Virgin Mary's celestial journey, various characters are depicted on the Varia. Each has a significant role—many of these roles are ‘played’ by humans, not just statues! At the top is the Animella, or Virgin Mary, played by a young girl surrounded by 30 children as angels and saints. The supporting and encouraging Padreterno is directly below the girl, represented by a young man. There are also 12 Cippu at the base, or interpreters of the apostles. Each of these roles is portrayed by locals chosen for their dedication and faith. In particular, to be selected as the Animella is an incredible honour in Palmi!
For the people of this town, the Varia is a source of immense pride. It's a time to showcase Palmi’s unique traditions and to welcome visitors with open arms, sharing the warmth and hospitality for which Calabria is known.
Experience the Varia di Palmi
If you find yourself in Calabria in August, make sure to add the Varia di Palmi to your itinerary. This incredible festival pulls in a crowd of over 150,000 people in a celebration of faith, tradition, and community and offers a unique glimpse into the heart of Calabrian culture. Taking place on the last Sunday of August, the Varia di Palmi’s festivities start even in the days leading up to the main event. Palmi offers a range of accommodations, from charming B&Bs to more modern hotels, which you should book early to secure a spot close to the action (in fact, the best hotel rooms will allow you to watch the procession right from your window instead of having to be in the crowds of people on the street level).
Palmi is easily accessible by train or car from major cities in Calabria, and the town's central location makes it a convenient base for exploring the surrounding region. For us, we travelled by car, parked in a large parking lot just outside of the main town, and paid €2 each to get on a bus that brought us right into the thick of it all.
As someone who loves to dive deep into local cultures and traditions, attending the Varia di Palmi was truly an unforgettable experience—one I’ll be returning to see again this year. The sheer scale of the festival, the dedication of the participants, and the vibrant atmosphere left me wanting to return—you’ll feel the same way, too!
Plus, don’t forget to stick around after the procession ends. You’ll be able to watch all the children atop the Varia be unbuckled from their seats on the structure and taken back down to the street by firefighters on ladders. The young Animella will then be placed on a giant throne adorned with palms and carried through the streets as she waves at the crowd.
All in All
The Varia di Palmi is more than just a festival. It is a vibrant celebration of culture, community, and tradition that offers a unique and unforgettable experience to visitors.
Whether you're drawn by the spectacle of the Varia, the festive atmosphere, or the warm hospitality of the locals, this event should be on every traveller's bucket list. Whether you’re going to the event in just two days or planning a trip for one of its future annual reoccurrences, get ready to embrace the spirit of southern Italy and head to Palmi to witness the magic of the Varia di Palmi for yourself.
For more information on the Varia di Palmi, visit their official website here!
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