Start your captivating journey through Malta's Birgu, L-Isla, and Bormla. Discover the rich history, vibrant culture, and culinary delights of the Three Cities.
When you enter the Three Cities, it’s as if you’ve instantly stepped into a world where history is etched into every stone, and stories of valour and tradition whisper through the narrow streets. These are the small cities of Birgu, L-Isla, and Bormla, also commonly known by their Italian names of Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Cospicua. Nestled across the Grand Harbour from Valletta, these fortified cities offer a unique blend of Maltese heritage, stunning architecture, and vibrant local life. If you’re seeking an authentic Maltese experience, there’s no better place to start your journey than right here.
Through our partnership with Visit Malta, the Three Cities was a necessity to add to our itinerary, as Bormla is where my grandmother was born and a city close to my heart. Of course, while I was here, there were so many incredible places to visit within the Three Cities, with many of these sites available to enter with our Heritage Malta Pass (if not already free to enter).
Let’s step back in time and see what these fortified cities each have to offer their visitors on their trip to Malta.
Arriving in the Three Cities from Valletta
If you’re arriving from anywhere City Sightseeing’s Hop On-Hop Off Malta Bus Tour stops, this is a great way to get into the Three Cities (I much preferred this over using public transit). However, one of the most enchanting ways to reach the Three Cities, available only from Valletta, is by water taxi. With this, yu’ll zip over on a quick 10-minute ride across the harbour on a traditional, motorized gondola, known locally as a dgħajsa. For just €3 per person, this charming mode of transport departs from nearby the Barrakka Lift in Valletta, making the journey not only scenic, but also convenient. The lift itself, a giant elevator that saves you the trek down the hill, costs just €1 round trip.
As you glide across the shimmering waters of the Grand Harbour, the fortified walls of Birgu, L-Isla, and Bormla come into view, each with its own story to tell. The arrival in Birgu sets the tone for the adventures that await in these historic cities, and the magic that awaits you.
Birgu as the Heart of Maritime Malta
Stepping off the water taxi in Birgu, also known as Vittoriosa, you're greeted by a picturesque waterfront teeming with life. Birgu’s rich maritime history is brought to life at the Malta Maritime Museum, located right at the water's edge (and free to enter with the Heritage Malta Pass). This museum is housed in the former British Naval Bakery, a historic building dating back to the mid-19th century, and offers a comprehensive look into Malta's maritime past. This grand building, with its imposing structure and impressive architectural features, once served as the island’s largest bakery, supplying bread and biscuits to the British Mediterranean Fleet.
Inside the museum, visitors can explore a wide array of exhibits that span Malta's maritime history, from ancient times to the present day. The collection includes a variety of ship models, ranging from traditional Maltese fishing boats to grand naval vessels, providing insight into the evolution of maritime technology and design. One of the standout pieces is a detailed model of the HMS Pandora, which offers a glimpse into the craftsmanship and naval architecture of the 18th century. The museum also houses numerous artifacts, such as navigational instruments, weapons, and uniforms, that tell the stories of Malta’s naval engagements and its strategic importance in the Mediterranean. The extensive collection of maritime paintings and photographs also capture the daily life and significant events of Malta’s seafaring community. If you’re a fan of anything having to do with maritime life, this is the place for you!
Another must-visit is the Inquisitor’s Palace, available to enter free of charge with the Heritage Malta Pass. This is easily one of Malta’s most fascinating historical sites, providing a unique glimpse into the island’s complex religious and judicial history. Built in the early 1530s, the palace originally served as the law courts of the Order of St. John, but later became the seat of the inquisitor when the Roman Inquisition was established in Malta in 1574. This remarkable building is one of the few surviving palaces of its kind in Europe and stands as a testament to Malta’s pivotal role in the religious and political landscape of the Mediterranean. The palace's architecture reflects its various roles over the centuries, combining elements of medieval, Renaissance, and baroque styles (put simply, it is gorgeous inside of there).
Visitors to the Inquisitor’s Palace can explore a variety of well-preserved rooms and spaces that illustrate its multifaceted history. The Tribunal Room, where inquisitors conducted their trials, is particularly striking to look at, despite its dark history. Here, you can almost hear the echoes of past interrogations and proceedings. Adjacent to it is the Torture Chamber, a grim reminder of the methods used to extract confessions. The palace also houses the inquisitor’s private apartments, which offer a more personal view of those who lived and worked there. These rooms are furnished with period pieces that provide insight into the daily life and status of the inquisitors.
One of the palace's most interesting areas is its prison cells, where those accused of heresy and other crimes were held. The graffiti etched into the walls by former prisoners offers a poignant and personal connection to the past, allowing visitors to glimpse the thoughts and emotions of those who were confined there. There was also a sign there explaining what people could be imprisoned for in those days (or rather, activities that had to be reported to the Holy Office, who would then interrogate you), and I honestly fit the bill for a couple of them, which was a little bit concerning and made me very glad to be a 21st century woman. If you’re wondering which they might be, it includes owning or perusing prohibited books, heretical opinions, etc.
In addition to its historical and architectural significance, the Inquisitor’s Palace serves as the National Museum of Ethnography. This museum showcases traditional Maltese culture and customs, with exhibits covering various aspects of daily life, religious practices, and popular traditions from the 16th century to the present.
L-Isla’s Serenity and Stunning Views
Next, head over to L-Isla, or Senglea, a tranquil city known for its serene gardens and breathtaking harbour views. The free-to-enter Gardjola Gardens are a perfect spot for a peaceful stroll, offering panoramic vistas of the Grand Harbour and Valletta. These gardens were established in the 17th century during the rule of the Knights of St. John, specifically by Grand Master Claude de la Sengle, after whom Senglea is named. Perched on the bastion at the tip of Senglea, this space provides a panoramic vista of the Grand Harbour, Valletta, and the surrounding fortifications. The gardens are relatively small, but beautifully landscaped with a variety of trees, shrubs, and flowering plants, creating a peaceful oasis amidst the historic setting.
One of the most iconic features of Gardjola Gardens is the Gardjola Watchtower, a small, stone lookout post that stands sentinel over the harbour. This watchtower is adorned with symbolic carvings, including an eye, an ear, and a crane, which represent vigilance and guardianship. These symbols are a reminder of the strategic importance of Senglea in Malta’s military history, particularly during the Great Siege of 1565, when the city played a crucial role in defending the island from Ottoman forces. Inside the gardens, there are several benches where visitors can sit and enjoy the serene environment while taking in the stunning views. The calm and quiet atmosphere makes it an ideal spot for relaxation, reflection, or even a leisurely picnic.
As well, the Senglea Parish Church, with its beautiful interior, is another highlight. Formally known as the Basilica of the Nativity of Mary, this is a prominent landmark in the city of L-Isla. The church was originally built in the early 17th century, commissioned by Grand Master Alof de Wignacourt of the Order of St. John (remember the Wignacourt Museum I mentioned that’s in Rabat? It’s the same guy!). Its construction was part of the Grand Master's efforts to fortify and enhance the city of Senglea. The church was consecrated in 1743 and has undergone several restorations and enhancements over the centuries, especially following the significant damage it sustained during World War II.
Architecturally, the Senglea Parish Church is a perfect example of Baroque design, characterized by its intricate façade and detailed interior decorations. The exterior features a grand entrance with columns and ornate carvings, which set the tone for the elaborate interior. Inside, the church boasts a stunning main altar, adorned with fine marble and gilded accents. The ceiling is decorated with beautiful frescoes that depict scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary, adding to the church’s grandeur.
One of the most revered artifacts within the Senglea Parish Church is the statue of Our Lady of Victories, known locally as Il-Bambina; this statue is believed to have miraculous powers and is the focal point of the annual feast celebrated on September 8th, which commemorates both the birth of the Virgin Mary and Malta's victory over the Ottoman Empire during the Great Siege of 1565. The feast is a significant event for the residents of Senglea and attracts numerous visitors who participate in the religious processions and festivities.
The Tapestry of Tradition in Bormla
Bormla, also known as Cospicua, is the largest of the Three Cities, and is my grandmother’s hometown. Its narrow streets and historic buildings exude charm and character, and there are plenty of gorgeously coloured balconies, called Gallarija Maltija, that you can spot. The town is a treasure trove of hidden gems, from quaint cafés to local shops selling artisanal products.
One of Bormla’s notable landmarks is the Church of the Immaculate Conception, another stunning example of baroque architecture. Construction of the church began in the early 17th century, around 1624, under the auspices of the Order of St. John (as is typical of religious sites on the island nation). It was built to serve the spiritual needs of the residents of Bormla, one of the Three Cities that played a crucial role in Malta's defence during various historical sieges. The church was consecrated in 1736, after over a hundred years of construction and embellishment. The church’s resilience is also a significant part of its history, as it suffered damage during World War II, but was meticulously restored in the post-war years, preserving its historical and cultural integrity.
Architecturally, the Church’s façade is adorned with intricate stone carvings and statues, reflecting the artistic sensibilities of the period. The entrance is marked by grand doors and a set of steps that lead worshippers into the sacred space. Inside, the church is equally impressive, with a richly decorated interior that includes elaborate altars, beautiful frescoes, and detailed woodwork. The main altar, dedicated to the Immaculate Conception, is a focal point of the church’s interior design. It features a stunning altarpiece depicting the Virgin Mary, surrounded by angels and saints, a work that exemplifies the Baroque love for drama and grandeur. It’s something you must see—it’s stunning, and a testament to the beauty of Maltese architecture, history, and art.
Bormla’s elevated position offers lovely views of the shipyards and the surrounding harbour. Strolling through its streets, you’ll find plenty of spots to sit and soak in the atmosphere, perhaps with a coffee or a traditional Maltese pastizzi in hand.
A Feast of Culinary Delights in the Three Cities
A visit to the Three Cities wouldn’t be complete without indulging in the local culinary delights. Birgu is a haven for foodies; its waterfront is lined with an array of restaurants, serving everything from traditional Maltese dishes to international cuisine. Whether you’re in the mood for fresh seafood, pasta, or a glass of local wine, dining in Birgu is always a delightful experience. Here, there’s something to tantalize every taste bud.
L-Isla’s waterfront is dotted with restaurants offering al fresco dining with views of the harbour. From casual cafés to fine dining establishments, there’s something to suit every palate. Enjoying a meal here as the sun sets over the water is truly magical, unforgettable experience.
In Bormla, you’ll also find a variety of cafés and eateries that offer a taste of local life. Whether you’re in the mood for a quick snack or a leisurely meal, Bormla’s culinary scene has something to offer. I know I keep saying it, but don’t forget to try the local pastizzi, a delicious pastry filled with ricotta or peas, which is a staple of Maltese cuisine and so delicious. Seriously, I could eat these all day, every day.
The Local Experience of Immersing in Maltese Culture
To truly appreciate the Three Cities, it’s essential to immerse yourself in the local culture. In Birgu, take a guided walking tour to uncover the hidden stories and legends that make this city so fascinating. Local guides bring the history to life with their captivating narratives and insider knowledge. There’s also a little train that departs every half hour or so from the same spot the gondola docks, that will take you around the Three Cities and share interesting facts about the locations it passes.
In L-Isla, visit the Senglea Heritage Trail to learn more about the city’s rich cultural and architectural heritage. This self-guided tour takes you through some of the city’s most iconic landmarks, providing a deeper understanding of its history and significance.
Bormla offers a more intimate look at Maltese life, with its vibrant community and bustling streets. Take the time to chat with the locals, explore the local markets, and soak in the atmosphere of this charming city. It’s these personal interactions that make visiting the Three Cities such a unique and enriching experience.
If you’re passing through entirely on City Sightseeing’s Hop On-Hop Off Malta Bus Tour, you’ll also learn more about the city through their tour guide, but I recommend getting off and exploring it on foot to see everything mentioned in this article for yourself! This bus tours are meant to get you from place to place and share information, not be the only method of seeing a city from a moving vehicle.
All in All
The Three Cities of Malta—Birgu, L-Isla, and Bormla—offer a captivating blend of history, culture, and modern charm. Whether exploring ancient fortifications, indulging in the delicious local cuisine, or simply soaking in the atmosphere of these historic streets, the Three Cities promise an unforgettable journey. It makes for an incredible day trip that will surely be a highlight of your visit to Malta.
So, why not pack your bags and embark on an adventure to the Three Cities? Discover the maritime marvels, savour the culinary delicacies, and immerse yourself in the rich cultural heritage of these enchanting Maltese towns. The Three Cities are waiting to share their stories with you.
WOW! You really covered a lot of ground in one days. Malta is truly beautiful and your pictures say what a beautiful time you had there. I liked your detailed description of the three cities you visited.