Celebrating Tradition at the Festa di San Francesco in Vazzano, Calabria

Welcome to the Festa di San Francesco, a festival in Vazzano, Calabria where people across the world come to celebrate together in a small but beautiful community in Italy's south.

The main piazza in Vazzano, at night.

When I was a kid, on the weekend around my birthday on the fourth Sunday of August, we attended the Festa di San Francesco (the Festival of Saint Francis) in Toronto. It was an event that all of the Calabrian immigrants went to, especially those from Vazzano or the surrounding towns. While it was a lot of fun—I would go with my grandparents, there were always kids to play with, and there was amazing food to eat—I always wanted to go to the real-deal event that takes place on the same day in Italy.

Finally, last summer, I went for the first time (and, naturally, also spent my 29th birthday there).

While I had been to Vazzano before, as it’s my grandmother’s hometown, I had never seen it so full of life. My last trip had been in May of 2019, when the streets were pretty much empty, the piazze were quiet, and there were more stray dogs than people to talk to. In August, however, it becomes an entirely different place; a town steeped in tradition woven into the very fabric of daily life during August. During this time, people who dispersed across the world as immigrants return to their roots. The air becomes thick with the scent of delicious food and the sound of laughter and chatting mingles with the notes of music all night and into the early hours of the morning.

This is all because of the Festa di San Francesco.

The Origins of the Festa di San Francesco

Off to get our robes blessed before the Festa officially began.

The Festa di San Francesco has its beginnings back in the 13th century; it’s dedicated to Saint Francis of Paola, the patron saint of Calabria, who was born in 1416. Saint Francis was known for his humility, miraculous healings, and profound piety, and thus, the people of Calabria have revered him for centuries. His legacy continues to inspire Catholics of the region all the way to the modern day (also, it’s said that Francis kept a fully vegan diet totally free from all animal-derived foods, so kudos to him—because even I have found it impossible to give up cheese, eggs, and honey—so you might even say that I could learn a thing or two from him, too).

The festival originated as a way to honour him and, while his feast day is traditionally in May, he is celebrated in Vazzano, a quaint village in the heart of Calabria, for a long weekend at the end of each August. For many, it’s a celebration of faith, but I found it to be a beautiful celebration of community, tradition, and Italian history and culture.

Over time, the festival has naturally evolved, but its essence remains unchanged. The locals have passed down stories, traditions, and customs through generations, making the Festa di San Francesco an incredible opportunity to experience Calabria’s amazing heritage.

Feasting and Dancing at the Sagra dei Pipi e Patati

Though not officially a part of the festivities surrounding the Festa, the Sagra dei Pipi e Patati (the Festival of Peppers and Potatoes, in the Vazzanese/Calabrian dialect) typically takes place a week or so beforehand and feels as much a part of the events as anything else.

Me and Vittoria hard at work.

For nearly two decades, the Sagra dei Pipi e Patati, organized by the local Pro Loco (a volunteer, grass-roots organization centred around running events for the community), has become a hallmark of summer in Vazzano. This event, celebrating the popular local pepper and potato dish, draws thousands of visitors from across the region each year. I volunteered with my cousin through the pro loco last summer, and our group served dishes to a remarkable 700 people! This doesn’t even include the people who came afterward to socialize and dance.

Adding to the party last year was the ethnofolk group Amakorà, hailing from Vazzano, who put on an incredible performance and—fun fact—were actually the first live concert I’ve seen while travelling in Europe. I had such an incredible time, dancing and socializing until I finally stumbled home with my cousin at nearly 7 AM.

Our group of Pro Loco volunteers from the Sagra dei Pipi e Patati!

(My friend Domenico actually wrote a whole article about the event last year, which you can read in Italian here!)

The Tradition of Mostaccioli Calabresi

Maybe it’s millennia of Mediterranean folk traditions running through my blood—who can say for certain—but this is where my belief system comes in. In short, I’m not religious, but I am a little bit superstitious. Sometimes, a bit more than others (not to mention that I love taking part in a good tradition). As Michael Scott would say:

With this in mind, one of the Festa di San Francesco's unique traditions that I personally latched onto is utilizing Mostaccioli Calabresi. These are giant Calabrian cookies, made with flour, honey, and a hint of seasoning, that are not just for eating (in my opinion, they actually taste like crap)—but they're crafted in shapes that symbolize what you hope Saint Francis will bless you with for the coming year. Imagine a cookie shaped like a house if you're wishing for a new home, or a leg if you're praying for healing of the leg. Some cookies take the form of a couple if you seek love. Obviously, I wanted to ‘submit’ a bunch of different cookies for consideration to the saint, but when I realized that each one cost €20 and I definitely don’t have the talent to sculpt my own out of dough, I narrowed it down to one. I actually had to order the cookie way in advance, telling my cousin what I wanted before we even met up in Egypt a few weeks prior.

The process begins with buying the cookie, which you bring to Saint Francis once he’s in the big church, the Church of Saint Nicholas (Chiesa Parrocchiale di San Nicola)—that is, after he is brought over from the little church, or chiesola, where he normally is throughout the rest of the year. You then touch the cookie to the foot of the statue and place it in a basket beside him.

The cookie my cousin bought back (which came with a bonus kid that I didn't originally buy)

On the festival’s final day, there's a big auction in the main piazza, where you can buy back your cookie, a symbolic act meant to bring your wish to fruition (all the money goes towards funding the festival, and all the events and activities that were put on for the community during this time, which is money well spent, in my opinion). If essentially declaring your wish/prayer to the whole town feels too embarrassing, there's an alternative. You can make a donation to the church, equivalent to the amount you initially paid for the cookie (probably €20), and bypass the auction by keeping your cookie at home…and everyone else is none the wiser.

Then you wait…and hope for the best.

I donated my cookie, and then changed my mind about buying it back on the day of the auction because I had been spending too much money on other things (a bad balance of priorities, I guess), but when I returned home the morning after the auction, I noticed that my cousin had purchased the cookie. So, hopefully that still counts for me!

San Francesco’s Procession Through the Town

Are you looking to participate in the Festa yourself? Here’s what you can expect (coming from someone who dressed up in the robes and did the procession myself—long story, but I made a promise that needed to be kept because…well, I’m superstitious, haha).

1. Friday: The statue of Saint Francis is carried on a fancy litter from the chiesola to the Church of Saint Nicholas in a relatively short procession. Later in the day, there is a mass where the priest blesses the robes of partitioners (during the processions, devotees wear a black monk habit similar to what Saint Francis wore) for the religious activities ahead. That night, the festivities officially begin.

2. Saturday: Nothing in particular is going on during the day, but this is when you can bring your Mostaccioli cookie to the church as an offering, socialize with friends in the piazze, or check out the different stalls lining a few of the main roads that sell handmade goods, some food, and even little toys for kids. Some cool fair-type rides are also available, but just for children. There’s also a play and live music that everyone can enjoy.

3. Sunday: The big procession takes place, where Saint Francis is paraded through the town (more on that in detail below). Eventually, he’s brought back to the little chiesola and later that night, there’s a beautiful fireworks show that everyone gathers to watch.

4. Monday: This is a relatively quiet day, followed by the town-wide auction at night, where people bid not just on the Mostaccioli cookies they donated earlier that weekend, but also on other foods and items donated by locals.

The face of someone roasting in the sun for two hours while wearing two layers of clothing.

As I said, the centrepiece of the festival is the grand procession, a spectacle that draws visitors from near and far. A sea of people dressed in traditional monk attire follow a statue of Saint Francis through the narrow streets of Vazzano as he’s carried along on a litter worthy of ancient royalty. The reverence and devotion of the locals is truly palpable and, in many ways, I found it admirable. It’s a poignant reminder of the saint’s enduring legacy and the community’s unwavering faith.

The procession begins at the Church of Saint Nicholas, with everyone following a predetermined path past nearly half the streets in Vazzano, so that people waiting to see the saint pass by their windows will be able to. He is taken all the way to the cloister of San Francesco di Paola at the entrance to the town, where a mass is held. After it concludes, the statue is carried back to the church, taking a different route for others to see the saint pass by their windows. Then, there is a second mass. (As a piece of advice, if you decide to wear the robes and walk in the procession, don’t wear an entire proper outfit underneath it or you’ll feel like you’re being suffocated by the heat; just wear your underwear and call it a day.)

All in All

The Festa di San Francesco in Vazzano is a celebration that is filled with local tradition. It’s a vivid tapestry of history, culture, and faith, woven together by the people who call this charming village home as much as the people whose families called it home in generations past. Whether you’re drawn by the promise of delicious food, the allure of music and dance, or the chance to connect with a vibrant community, this festival has something for everyone.

Experience the magic of Vazzano in late August, and discover the heart and soul of Calabria. The Festa di San Francesco is more than just an event—it’s an invitation to be part of something truly special.

I’ll see you there!

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