Ready to embark on an adventure of a lifetime by climbing Mount Etna? Discover its fiery history, volcanic craters, and stunning landscapes in Sicily.
Early August in Sicily? Yeah, it’s hot. So when my family and I decided to tackle Mount Etna, Sicily’s infamous active volcano, we figured the early morning was the best time to start our adventure—after all, the top of the mountain is chilly and would give us a reprieve from the regular temperatures on ground level.
Mount Etna isn’t just any mountain. She’s Europe’s highest and most active volcano, which means you’re in for a treat—both in terms of scenery and stories to take home. Located on the eastern coast of Sicily, Etna is a UNESCO World Heritage site and has been erupting for half a million years. That’s right, a half million years of eruptions. But don’t worry; locals have been living in harmony with Etna for centuries, and they’re more than happy to share their tips on how to enjoy her safely. Whether you're an adrenaline addict looking to summit the peak or a laid-back traveller content with exploring the lower craters, Etna offers something for everyone.
Living in Calabria, my family are no strangers to beautiful landscapes, but there’s something about standing at the base of Etna that makes you feel like a speck in a vast, ever-changing world. With our bags packed and plenty of water in tow, we set out from home, aiming to catch the ferry through Messina and then drive up to Etna’s welcoming slopes.
Ferry to Sicily: Our Journey to Climbing Mount Etna
Our day started early. If you’ve ever crossed the Strait of Messina around sunrise, you’ll know how peaceful that ferry ride can be. The gentle rocking of the boat, the dim glow of morning light stretching over the water, and the sight of Sicily slowly emerging in the distance—this was our gateway to adventure. For us, it wasn’t just about reaching Etna; it was about the journey there, too. We drove off the ferry and wound our way through Sicily’s countryside, which is gorgeous in its own right, even taking a brief stop in Taormina to have lunch in the beautiful Parco Florence Trevelyan.
Eventually, we passed through Nicolosi, a small town at the foot of the volcano where we’d be spending the night, but continued our ascent toward the top. Driving up Etna is an experience unto itself. The road twists and turns along switchback roads, offering glimpses of the volcanic landscape that awaited us. As we got closer, the green trees gave way to dark, ashen ground—the telltale sign that we were entering Etna’s domain. She had also erupted recently, inevitably sending another fresh layer of ash across the region.
Parking on a Volcano: Yes, it’s as Cool as it Sounds
By the time we reached the parking lot near the top, I felt like we had travelled to another planet. We quickly found a spot, stepped out of the car, and were greeted by the excitement of being so close to something so powerful. The landscape was surreal—black, jagged rocks stretching out in every direction. It was also cold up at the top of the mountain, a significant change from the blistering heat below; so much so that we needed to put on sweaters (I used Unbound Merino's Transit Quarter Zip, which was perfect for regulating temperatures up there).
The first thing we did was take in the view. From our vantage point, we could see the craters dotting the mountainside, each a testament to Etna’s fiery history. Armed with water bottles—and I, with my camera—we set out on foot to explore the various craters.
Walking Into a Crater: Not as Crazy as it Sounds (But Still Pretty Wild)
I never thought I could say that I walked into a volcanic crater, but here I am—officially a crater explorer. We started with the Silvestri Craters, which are easily accessible from the parking lot and perfect for a family exploration. These craters were formed during an eruption in 1892, and while they’re dormant now, they still have that eerie, otherworldly quality that makes you realize just how powerful nature can be.
Walking up to the crater's rim, you first notice how quiet it is. There’s no lava bubbling away (thankfully), just the crunch of volcanic rock underfoot and the occasional gust of wind blowing through this extraterrestrial-looking landscape. We cautiously made our way down into one of the craters, and I’ll admit, it felt pretty surreal. The crater walls seemed to open up around us, and for a moment, it was easy to forget the world outside existed. Something is humbling about standing in a place that was once full of molten rock.
We spent the next hour or so exploring these craters, each offering a different landscape perspective. Some were deep and narrow, while others were wide, almost inviting in their openness. It’s hard to describe the feeling of standing at the centre of a crater, knowing that the earth beneath you has literally been shaped by fire.
Etna’s Ever-Changing Landscape: An Afternoon of Surreal Beauty
If you’ve never been to Mount Etna, you might imagine a barren, lifeless expanse of rock. While there’s plenty of that, there’s also an incredible variety of landscapes to explore. As we hiked along the blackened trails, we were struck by the contrast between the dark volcanic rock and the occasional splash of greenery. Hardy plants, somehow thriving in this unforgiving environment, added pops of colour to the otherwise monochromatic scene.
What’s most impressive about Etna is how the landscape changes as you go higher. While we didn’t travel too far (we were with children), if you continue, you will find yourself passing through fields of lava rock that look like they had only recently cooled (spoiler: they probably had) and wandering across ash fields that make it seem as if you are on the moon. In fact, Etna has over 300 craters, each with its own unique story. Some are dormant, their jagged edges softened by time and erosion, while others still smoke and sputter with volcanic energy.
The higher you climb, the more dramatic the scenery becomes; however, from most places on the volcano, you can stop to take in the view of the Mediterranean Sea far below in the distance. On a clear day, the view stretches for miles, and it’s a reminder that while Etna can be fiery and destructive, she’s also part of a much bigger, stunning world.
Nicolosi: The Perfect Base for Exploring Etna
After an afternoon of crater-hopping, we returned down the volcano to Nicolosi, the charming little town that would be our home for the night. Nicolosi is the perfect base for anyone planning to explore Etna, and there are plenty of cute bed and breakfasts to stay at. It’s close enough to the volcano that you can easily head up in the morning, but far enough away to relax and unwind without worrying about an impromptu eruption. Not that you have to, by the way; the volcano is monitored day and night.
The town itself is steeped in history, much of it tied to Etna’s eruptions over the years. You’ll find restaurants serving up some of the best Sicilian food around, with menus packed full of dishes celebrating the region’s volcanic soil. I indulged in my first pizza during this particular visit to Italy; after a long day of exploring, a hearty dinner was what we all needed.
While there are plenty of local beers to try, many wines should also be sampled. Did you know that the volcanic soil here produces some of the best grapes in Sicily? If you’re a wine lover, stop by one of the local vineyards and sample a glass of Etna Rosso. It’s the perfect way to toast your volcano-climbing achievements.
Climbing Mount Etna is a Must (Even if You’re Not a Hardcore Hiker)
So, after spending a day climbing Mount Etna, exploring her craters, and taking in the views, here’s the thing: you don’t need to be a hardcore adventurer to appreciate this volcano. Sure, the summit climb is there if you’re feeling up for it, but even just exploring the lower slopes, as we did, is enough to give you a taste of Etna’s wild beauty. There’s something for everyone here—whether you want to drive up and walk around the immediate area, hike the entire area (including from the base of the volcano), or even take a quad bike around the rugged terrain.
The main trail starts at Rifugio Sapienza, located about 1,900 meters (about 6,234 feet) above sea level. From here, you can either hike to the summit or take a cable car to skip the first leg of the journey. Once you reach the top station, you can continue on foot or opt for a 4x4 vehicle to take you even closer to the summit. It’s the perfect combination of adventure and convenience—especially if you’re saving your energy for the final push to the top.
We may not have reached the very top, but that didn’t take away from the experience. Walking into craters, feeling the crunch of volcanic ash underfoot, and standing on the ground shaped by thousands of years of eruptions are all part of the magic. And let’s not forget the views. Looking out over Sicily from the slopes of Etna is something I won’t soon forget.
All in All
If you’re planning a trip to Sicily, climbing Mount Etna should absolutely be on your list. Whether you’re an experienced hiker or a casual traveller like my family, an adventure awaits you on those volcanic slopes. It’s not just about the challenge of climbing a volcano—it’s about the landscapes, the history, and the stories you’ll take home. So, grab your running shoes and a warm sweater and prepare for an unforgettable journey. Trust me, Etna’s got a way of leaving her mark on you.
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